Photo Friday: Krakow Culture Break

Last weekend I spend a few days in Krakow for a city/culture/mama break. Want to come along?

First, a walk across the Vistula River that cuts through the city. We’re going through the Old Town (Rynek Główny) and former Jewish Ghetto.

On the way to MOCAK, the Modern Art Museum, and the former enamelware factory of Oscar Schindler. They’re right next door to each other—old and new.

The Oscar Schindler museum tells of life in Krakow under Nazi occupation—from pre-war to the Krakow ghettos and up until 1945. It’s a powerful and emotional experience, as you can imagine. It’s not, as one might think, as much about Oscar Schindler himself as it is about the steady process of dehumanizing and exterminating a segment of the population of a city. Throughout, the exhibits and displays truly make you feel as though you’ve gone back in time.

A replica from the pre-war olden days—a kaiserpanorama. Here’s a scene you might see looking through the lenses at the glass photo slides:

One of the most poignant parts of the Oscar Schindler museum was this art installation: A giant circular space filled with quotes written in Polish, German, Hebrew and English. Outside is a sign saying: “A small gesture can yield irreversible consequences. It can either save a life, or ruin it.” Each one of the messages inside shares an instance of someone saving another’s life—giving a stranger a coat in the freezing Krakow winter, or a baptism certificate or a ride or a hiding place or false papers. It was one of the most powerful art installations I’ve ever seen and—I think—a necessary reminder that every gesture we do has an impact. To stand inside and read these little fragments of kindness was almost overwhelming.

After collecting myself, I went next door to the MOCAK, the modern art museum.

They had a major exhibition from artist Julian Opie. I love the crisp graphic lines here, so simple and clean—yet  note the shading on her sweater and shorts. Fabulous.

And of course I love any time words and visual art combine. The black portion of this piece by Peter Weibel is a mask placed over a TV screen—the background is constantly changing as the picture on the screen changes. It makes me think about creating paper masks to go over painted or inked backgrounds.

Then back out into the rainy October weather. The bakery (cukiernia) on the corner looks cozy, doesn’t it?

A stop to check out some street art. I’m into black and white these days and I’m really keen on how the lines on the background and the figure are playing with dimension. Cool, isn’t it?

A fabulous accidental discovery while walking back to the hotel: A bead store!

Beeeeeaaads! Even with the language barrier, I think the owner of the bead store and I understood each other quite well. I haven’t done much beading lately, and just coming in here was such a lovely boost of inspiration. I love how little shops can do that!

The next day, it’s Massolit, the English-language bookstore. I am a book fiend and there’s not much in the way of English books where I live, so here’s my chance to stock up for Anna and myself. Heaven!

Typical view of old buildings around the bookstore.

What will it be for dinner? Pork knuckle in beer, goose leg or stew of boar? Not much for those of us non-meat eaters here at an outdoor market, so I stop at a cafe for a dish of groats cooked with onion and garlic and vegetables. Perfect for a rainy evening.

Cool ride spotted on a side street. (I wasn’t the only one taking a photo!)

Heading back to the Old Town area. It’s about 40 minutes walk—or over an hour, if you get twizzled up on the map like I did.

Need anything? These little kiosks are packed with magazines, drinks, candy…and yes, it is open. You just have to peer into that little window at the bottom right and ask for what you want.

Let’s stop at the Cloth Hall market in the Old Town Square. You can buy carved wooden plates, boxes, souvenirs, crystal, clothing and more.

Next day and the weather is sunny and warm. A lovely morning for a coffee at a cafe in the Old Town. I’m even sitting outside!

The Old Town square has gorgeous architecture and statues.

Then to the International Cultural Centre for an historical exhibition. No photos allowed inside, unfortunately—the building is stunning and the exhibit was fascinating.

Candles outside the church. Come All Saints’ Day on November 1, there will be thousands of these candleholders placed on graves and memorial sites.

Then a walk to and from Wawel Castle, photo-taking along the way.

Finally, heading off to the airport for the one-hour flight back to Gdansk. Thanks for coming along with me!

Happy Friday!